Grass type Issues/Fine fescue concerns

TURF TYPE & LAWN HEALTH ISSUES

High Incidence of Fine Fescue “Brown Out”

TURF TYPE is a common reason for health issues in our lawns, but what do we mean by “turf type?” Turf type can refer to the Cool or Warm Season grasses (read more below), but also to the specific VARIETY of grass or combination of grasses.

With our summers becoming hotter in our area, our Cool Season grasses are struggling! Cool season grasses have optimal growth with air temperatures between 60-75 degrees (F) and soil temperatures between 50-65 degrees (F).

We are seeing significant lawn health issues especially when the “wrong” grass has been planted in the “wrong” area.

Specifically, fine fescue and poa trivialis grasses are being found in full sun areas at higher and higher rates each year. This will cause browning/dormancy in the heat of our summers.

In these cases of the wrong grass in full sun, the areas that are browning out WILL get larger each summer.

In addition, care practices that have always “worked” in the past are not working in many cases. With the hotter soil temperatures (and air temperatures) in summer along with higher nightime lows, our “cool season” grasses cannot tolerate long periods of dormancy or short mowing. Lawn care practices (watering, mowing and fertilization) must be appropriate for the weather conditions.

COOL SEASON GRASSES IN OUR AREA

Turf type matters because certain turf types do better or worse given sun exposure, soil temperatures and care practices

Most of our lawns are made up of Kentucky Bluegrass, Perennial Ryegrass, Fine Fescue, and Turf Type Tall Fescue. Most of our lawns are a “cool season mix” of those varieties, but some will also include other Fescue Grasses, Creeping Bentgrass, Coarse Fescue, Poa trivialis and others.

WHAT IS THE BEST TYPE OF GRASS FOR MY LAWN??

The best approach if starting from scratch is to plant different turfgrasses in each microclimate of your yard considering various factors:

  • tolerance for shade, heat, cold, and wear
  • appearance (including during dormancy)
  • fertilizer and mowing requirements
  • ease and rapidity of establishment

In most cases, however, the grass is already there in your yard…….

What are the pros & cons of each Grass type in YOUR lawn areas?

FINE FESCUE is a cool and shade loving grass.

Pros:

  • Very shade tolerant
  • Moderate establishment and seed germination rate
  • Spreads rapidly in cooler spring and fall- this can also be a CON, as it does often spread into inappropriate areas
  • Low thatch
  • Lighter green color
  • Cold tolerant

Cons:

  • Poor sun/heat tolerance- WILL brown out in summer
  • Poor disease resistance- very susceptable to dollar spot fungal disease, especially in full sun
  • Will frequently decline in full sun, especially when mowed too short
  • Commonly found in “sun/shade” seed mixes- Often accidentally seeded in sunny areas.
  • More fragile and not as “wear” tolerant for heavier traffic

Fine fescue “brown out” has become a significant issue in many lawns in our area.

Unfortunately, when fine fescue is growing in sunny areas of a lawn, it WILL brown out EVERY summer and will usually show recovery in fall. During the cooler fall and spring, the fine fescue will spread and expand so that the browning area is larger each summer.

“How did the fine fescue get into my lawn?”

We see 3 main ways that fine fescue ends up in full sun.

  1. Fine fescue was in a shady area and the shade was removed (tree taken down, shed removed, etc) and the area is now full sun.
  2. Fine fescue from a shady area spread into a full sun area.
  3. Fine fescue was planted in the full sun area. Many seed mixes include fine fescue. Sun/shade blends will commonly contain fine fescue. Whether you or someone else seeded or overseeded, it is possible that fine fescue grass seed was planted.

Poa trivialis (or “rough” bluegrass) is another shade loving grass that can be invasive and problematic in full sun areas. It becomes aggressive in full sun. It is also often included in shade grass mixtures, but may crowd out the other components of the mixture if grown in too much sun. It grows poorly in hot and/or drought conditions

KENTUCKY BLUE GRASS is the most popular grass used for lawns in the US.

Pros:

  • Dark-green color
  • Soft velvety feel
  • Spreading growth patterns
  • Tolerates full sun
  • Tolerates cold

Cons:

  • Slow to germinate & establish
  • Needs consistent watering
  • Heavier thatch
  • Does not tolerate high heat well

TURF TYPE TALL FESCUE is one of the most flexible, durable grasses available.

Pros:

  • Heat tolerant
  • Drought tolerant
  • Traffic/”wear” tolerant/durable
  • Low thatch
  • Moderate germination and establishment rate
  • Sun and shade tolerant (will thin out in heavy shade)
  • Dark-green color

Cons:

  • Less tolerant of cold conditions
  • Bunch type growth vs creeping
  • Coarse-textured blade (not as “soft” as blue grass)

PERENNIAL RYEGRASS is found in many cool-season seed blends and is a great mix for blue grass and/or turf-type tall fescue lawns.

Pros:

  • Soft textured blade
  • Rapid germination and establishment
  • Low thatch
  • Heat tolerant
  • Traffic/”wear” tolerant/durable

Cons:

  • Not shade tolerant/Needs full sun
  • Low-Moderate cold/drought tolerance
  • Needs consistent watering
Other:

We do find other grasses in our lawns and some of them are considered “grassy weeds”

You can read more about some of these in my previous newsletter on weeds: “Is this a Weed?:”https://conta.cc/35zdIFU

Quackgrass- commonly mistaken for Crabrass

Coarse Fescue

Links to read more:

https://web.extension.illinois.edu/lawntalk/selecting/lawn_grasses_northern_illinois.cfm

https://www.lawn-care-academy.com/finefescue.html

https://store.extension.iastate.edu/product/5083

What can you do to FIX the wrong grass in the wrong area?

If you have the wrong grass type, what are your options:

Option A: Leave it alone. The easiest option is to KNOW that these areas of the lawn will brown out (we are all used to our lawn going dormant in the winter) and EXPECT the browning. Care practices (HIGH mowing and good SOAK watering) can help the areas to look better. In most cases, when fall comes, you will see the areas green up and look much better.

Option B: Do something other than grass. You can make a landscape bed or plant trees/shrubs and replace the grass in the problem area.

Option C: Fight it a “little at a time.” You can fight small patches of undesirable grass a little at a time with a non-selective herbicide (gyphosate and Avenger are 2 options). This must be done cautiously with a long-handled sponge paint brush to avoid getting herbicide on the surrounding “good” grass. You should also wear proper protective equipment (gloves etc) as directed on the label. Over time, you can eliminate small patches and the “good” grass can fill in.

Option D: Agressive “Grass Replacement/Lawn Renovation” This must be done at the correct time of year! The entire area of undesirable grass AND good grass can be wiped out with a non-selective herbicide. This normally needs to be done in 2 treatments 2 weeks apart. After the 2nd treatment, heavy dethatching can be done to remove the dead grass and re-seeding with appropriate grass can be done. (You can read more about seeding timing and best practice here: July 30, 2023 Newsletter- When and How to Seed: https://conta.cc/456aFhz). It is important to be aware that herbicide treatments will NOT eliminate all roots/seeds of the undesirable grass type. Some additional “wrong” grasses will continue to come up in subsequent years and can and should be addressed on a “little at a time” basis as described in Option C.

Option Z: (Not a suggested option) Fungicides. Many people will ask about or suggest treating the dollar spot fungal disease affecting the fine fescue with fungicides. This option is more of a short term “band aid.” Fungicides only temporarily stop the spread of fungal organisms. Fungal spores are always in the soil and air and will flourish when conditions are right for them. In order to slow the fungal disease, fungicides (which are also very expensive) would need to be applied every 3-4 weeks throughout the growing season and the type of fungicide used would need to be varied to avoid resistance. Over time, we have seen many fungicides that are no longer effective due to fungicide resistant varieties (similar to overuse of antibiotics).

COOL SEASON vs WARM SEASON Grasses:

  • As mentioned above, in our area of the country, we have primarily “Cool Season” grasses.
  • In Southern states, you will find “Warm Season” grass. The warm season grasses (like Bermudagrass, St. Augustinegrass, Centipedegrass, Zoysiagrass, Bahiagrass and Carpetgras) need warmer temperatures to green up. If these are planted in our area, they will normally stay dormant (brown) until very late Spring or early summer and will go dormant quite early in the fall. Zoysiagrass and Nimblewill have been planted in error in some lawns in our area and can be a struggle for this reason.
Reminder of Basics:

Lawn Watering Guidelines: https://conta.cc/3vyDHFp

Proper Mowing Guidelines: https://conta.cc/34uU9KY

Shady Lawn Concerns & Options Newsletter:https://conta.cc/3hElY9V

Watering:”But I have a Sprinkler System:” https://conta.cc/2TofkvH